The smell of fried bread, sweets and curries wafted from the community kitchen of the Golden Temple in Amritsar, in the north Indian state of Punjab, as a group of around a hundred Sikhs waited for breakfast on Thursday before traveling to Pakistan for an annual pilgrimage. After breakfast, the pilgrims sat with their suitcases and duffel bags outside the office of the Shiromani Gurdwara Prabandhak Committee, which oversees Sikh temples in the country, as they waited to board buses …











